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1997 ARAUJO Owners and guardians of one of Napa Valleys most venerable vineyards, Eisele Vineyard, Bart and Daphne Araujo have secured a niche as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon producers in the world. Acquired in 1990 from Milt and Barbara Eisele, the Araujos have dedicated themselves to improving this already great terrior. Francoise Peschon is the winemaker, while legendary enologist Tony Sotor consults. Eisele Vineyard, at an elevation of 800 feet near Calistoga, consists of about 36 planted acres of which 28 are Cabernet Sauvignon. Five additional acres are coming into production in a few years. The unique microclimate is exemplified by Bart, on occasion, recording a 5 degree temperature differential between the warmer vineyard and nearby Silverado Trail. The oldest vines are planted on low yielding St. George rootstock that date back to 1964, the year the vineyard was originally planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. Ridge Vineyards was the first to produce an Eisele vineyard designated wine in 1971, followed by Conn Creek in 1974. Joseph Phelps began his impressive run of Eisele designated wines in 1975 and ended in 1991. Phylloxera was identified in the vineyard in 1990, but Bart said it "moves slowly here." Considerable replanting was done in 1991, the first vintage for Araujo Eisele. According to Bart, "we see tremendous strides each year in the textural aspects of the 91 vines." During my visit with Bart, I was impressed with his desire to improve on the status quo. He is committed to making Araujo Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon the very best he can. As Bart stated, "The more we invest in the property, the more the property shows." In 1991 there was significant replanting done including adding some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The current Eiseles are composed of a minimum 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder being Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. For example, the 1994 is composed of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, all from Eisele Vineyard. In contrast, the Phelps Eisele Cabernet Sauvignons were blended with about 5% Merlot. Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, made primarily from 1991 vines, round out the Araujo Estate wines. The demand for the Araujos Eisele Cab is high with half the wine sold through a mailing list and over 5000 people on the waiting list. But Bart sincerely states that he "wants to get his wine to more people." Production in 1995, 1996 and 1997 is 2500, 2300 and 2600 cases, respectively. Five years down the road, he expects to produce 3000 to 3500 cases, and some of those on the waiting may eventually get some of this legendary wine. 1997 Araujo Eisele Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 95-99 pts, C4N4?F4+A3T4E4+?TFR3: According to Bart, this blend "was close to the final blend." Melodious focused fruit that comes at you in multiple layers follows a sweet vanilla oak nose. Spicy tannins, excellent concentration, and amazing elegance typify this Cab. The unique terroir of Eisele explodes from the glass. It is a wine that is more seductive than overpowering. Tasted 2/10/99. |
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The Alchemist's Wine Perspective™ |