1997 Fisher Vineyards

As a young boy growing up in San Francisco, I have a vivid memory of opening the door of my family's 1953 Pontiac, looking down and seeing a carriage insignia and the words "Body by Fisher." In 1973 Fred Fisher, whose grandfather started the carriage company "Body by Fisher," and his wife Juelle Lamb Fisher founded Fisher Vineyards in the Sonoma Mayacamas Mountains at 6200 St. Helena Road. Although not exactly on the beaten path, the drive up from St. Helena is pleasant but windy.

Fisher produces the Coach Insignia Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, the RCF Vineyard Merlot and Lamb Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, both Napa Valley Appellation vineyards, and the Wedding Vineyard Cabernet and Whitney's Vineyard Chardonnay from vineyards surrounding the winery.

Before my visit, my primary experiences had been with the Coach Insignia wines which have always been excellent values. After my visit, I now am of the opinion that Fisher produces not only good values, but some of the some of the most powerful wines of the region. The 1997 vintage may herald the beginning of the Fisher era as one of the top wineries in California and the world.

Nick de Lucca, the assistant winemaker since the 1997 vintage and a graduate of UC, Santa Cruz, was good enough to take me on a barrel tasting tour of the winery. Nick is the hands-on, day-to-day winemaker while Paul Hobbs is consulting enologist.

All wines are barrel samples tasted February 4, 1999.

1997 Fisher Vineyards Merlot, Feingold Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, 94-98 pts, C4+N4+F4?T5-E4?: Made from purchased fruit grown in heavy clay soils at the 1400 foot level of Sonoma Mountain, this Merlot if soft and elegant with a bold nose. Currently, tannins dominate. The wine needs time to equilibrate.

1997 Fisher Vineyards Merlot, RCF Vineyard, Napa Valley, 96-100 pts, C5N4?F4+A3T3+E5-: RCF, a six acre parcel, stands for Robert Charles Fisher, the Fisher's 22 year old son. RCF is composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Only 22 barrels (550 cases) of this lush, ultra-smooth wine exists. The color is opaque red; the depth of the multi-layered flavors are unbelievable and perfectly integrated with the soft but sturdy tannic backbone. Wow! Maybe the best 1997 Merlot I've tasted.

1997 Fisher Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Lamb Vineyard, Napa Valley, 97-100 pts, C5N4+F5A3T3+E5-: Named after Mrs. Fisher, Lamb is a five acre vineyard planted in 1982. This is a great Cabernet. The color is opaque, and the nose is exceptionally well-developed for a new wine. Very concentrated, the wine tastes of sweet Cab fruit and possesses a softness within a firm structure. The finish is amazingly long and complex. Aged in 65% new French Oak, 21 barrels were produced. Bottled in June 1999, the wine will be released 12/25/99.

1997 Fisher Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon,Wedding Vineyard, Sonoma Mayacamus Mountains, 92-96 pts, C5N4+F4+A3T4E4: From the 12 acre estate vineyard with low yields of 0.25 ton per acre, this is the last year for Wedding until its AxR rootstock is replanted. This Cab is very concentrated with chalky tannins and excellent flavors. Needs time to integrate. Excellent potential.

Contact: alchemist@wineperspective.com