|
|
ZAPs
11TH ANNUAL ZINFANDEL TASTING
Several thousand zinfandel zealots converged on the Festival and Herbst
Pavilions at Fort Mason, San Francisco January 26, 2002. The steady rain
didn’t diminish the number of participants or dampen the spirit of the
dedicated throng of Zinners who braved the
elements to partake in the tasting of multi-vintage selections of about 272
wineries. One hundred six of the wineries (A-G) were located in the smaller
Herbst Pavilion, which was a tight fit compared to the larger Festival Pavilion,
which housed 166 wineries in a more comfortable setting. Although most wines
were from the 1999 and 2000 vintages, some producers brought 1997 and 1998. Some
wineries, like Ridge, offered more than four different wines for tasting.
Although I concentrated my tasting efforts on the 2000 vintage, I did sneak in a
few 1999s. Of particular note, was the 1999 Hartford, Fanucchi-Wood Road,
Russian River Valley, which was one of the best I tasted and merited a score of
95 ($33). 2000 VINTAGE
Since there was
no way I could taste 200+ wines, I concentrated my efforts on producers that have a
track record of taking Zinfandel to the next level. Most, if not all, were
barrel samples, and, hence, not quite finished. What follows is an alphabetical
listing by producer with appellation, score (range), cost, and telephone number.
ALL ARE 2000 VINTAGE ZINFANDELS. Brown Estates Vineyard, Napa Valley, 89-92, $32, 707-963-2435. Semi-rich with good flavors and finish. Chateau
Potelle Winery, VGS, Mt. Veeder, Napa
Valley, 88-92, $TBD, 707-255-9440. A sophisticated Zin (as compared to a working class Zin J)
with moderate richness and lots of oak. Chateau
Souverain, Winemaker’s Reserve, Sonoma, 88-92,
$TBD, 707-433-8281. Although lacking real intensity, it has
excellent structure and may show better after bottling. Release September 2002. D-Cubed
Cellars, Black-Sears, Howell Mountain, 92-96, $45, 707-963-5212. The
medicine dropper pours J
made it difficult to properly evaluate this wine. However, the fruit was
concentrated and the finish rich. Only 100 cases produced with a release date of
June 2002. DeLoach
Vineyards, OFS, Russian River Valley, 92-96, $50, 707-526-9111. Fifty
bucks for a Zin!?! It better be awesome. Rich, semi-jamy fruit, good balance,
long finish. Is that $50 worth? Hmm. Fife, Whaler Vineyard, Mendocino, 88-92, $20, 707-485-0323. This relative cheapie showed a little sulfur dioxide in the nose (which will go away), and interesting flavors in the mouth. It’s on my “try again after release” list. Geyser
Peak, Sonoma County, 86-88, $17, 800-255-9463. Speaking of relative
bargains, and an 800 number to boot, this baby possesses moderate levels of
jammy fruit and a decent finish. Hendry
Block 7, Napa Valley, 90-94+, $TBD, 707-222-2130. Hendry Block 7 is
always yummy, and this darling is no exception. This deep red zin shows good
concentration and a spicy finish all encased in a firm tannic structure. Release
June/July 2002. Outpost
Estate Wines, Howell Mountain, 90-93+, $TBD, 707-965-1718. Good
color, (appealing) celery salt nose, spicy finish. Try again list.
Release October 2002. Ravenswood,
Monte Rosso, Sonoma Valley, 88-92+, $30, 888-669-4679.
Very nice wine with semi-rich flavors and good balance. Try again list. Ridge
Vineyards, Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley, 92-96?, $TBD, 408-867-3233.
Perennially, one of the best Zins produced, this bully is very dark and big, but
too tannic and funky now. Needs time to equilibrate. Always a better ager than
most zins. Definitely on try again list. Ridge
Vineyards, Geyserville, Sonoma, 88-92, $TBD. Always very drinkable
and very good, this vintage is right on the mark. Drink on the young side.
Less than 75% Zin. Rosenblum
Cellars, Lyons, Napa Valley, 92-96, $35, 510-865-7007. A very tasty
morsel with an inviting deep red color, rich, smooth mouth-feel and a
long, strong finish. July 2002 release. Turley
Wine Cellars, Hayne Vineyard, Napa Valley, 94-98, $TBD, 707-963-0940.
Without question, the best Zin Turley makes. Great color, rich, jamy fruit with
a classy, very faint peppery finish. A sculpted pedigree wine.
In summary, the 2000 Zinfandel vintage is an
excellent one, and I highly recommend it. The wines will not be
available until summer and fall 2002, at which time a more definite accounting
will be made. If a wine is not listed above, I either didn’t taste it or found
it to be lacking. My goal is to give an introduction to the vintage through
tasting select wines. It’s up to you to determine your personal favorites. Two
self-evident truths for Zinfandel are: (1) Most don’t age well, so consume
them within their first 4 years of life while they are deliciously fresh, and
(2) Old Vine doesn’t necessarily translate into quality wine, although
they will generally cost more.
Thank you ZAP for yet another
well-orchestrated, monster tasting. For those of you who haven’t heard of ZAP
(Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), it is "…a non-profit, educational
organization dedicated to advance the public’s knowledge of, and appreciation
for Zinfandel, and its unique place in American culture and history." Grady
Wann is President and Rebecca Robinson is Executive Director and can be reached
at zaprr@oro.net.
Web site. zinfandel.org. January
31, 2002.
|
|
Contact: alchemist@wineperspective.com
The Alchemist's Wine Perspective™ |