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The 1999 Vintage may be the best ever for Washington. The Syrah varietal in Washington can be traced to the Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley where it was first planted from a cutting taken from Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley, California. The precise origin of those cuttings are not known, but presumably were brought to California from France in a suitcase in the 1800's. Washington has five American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) as defined by the U.S. Treasury Department, BATF: Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, Puget Sound, Walla Walla Valley, and Red Mountain. An AVA is unique in climate, soil and other physical features that distinguish it from surrounding areas. Eastern Washington only receives eight inches of annual rainfall, and, therefore, the vines are drip irrigated. Syrah is primarily grown in the warmer appellations, which includes all but Puget Sound. It is the third leading red variety behind Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Total wine grape acreage in the State is 29,000 acres, compared with 40,000 acres in Napa Valley. Many winemakers feel the 1999 vintage, which was considerably cooler than 2000 and 2001, is the best ever for Washington. My tasting notes for seven 1999 Syrahs follow. Release will occur within the next several months. 1999 Columbia Winery Syrah, Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley, $35, 93 pts, C5-N3?F4A3T4-E4TFR3: Deep red color. Rich and big with mouth-coating concentration. Excellent flavors and balance. Long, delicious finish. Aged 12 months in French oak, 20% new. Not yet released. David Lake, the winemaker for 20 years, states, "A cool but dry summer ripened a light crop slowly in Washington's first Syrah vineyard." Production is 2538 cases. Tel 425-488-2776. Tasted 3/5/02. 1999 Chateau Ste. Michelle Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $??, 91+ pts, C5-N3?F4-A3T4+?E3+?TFR3: Gorgeous ruby red color. Excellent concentration. Tannins predominating now. Needs time for tannins to soften and come into equilibrium with fruit. Should be better in a year or two. Fruit is predominantly from Cold Creek Vineyard, and the wine contains 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 20 months in half French and half American oak using 50% new and 50% one-year-old barrels. 425-488-1133. Tasted 3/5/02. 1999 Hogue Syrah, Vineyard Selection, Columbia Valley, $18, 91 pts, C4+N4F4-A3T4E3+TFR3: Big coffee nose. Good flavor and concentration. Long, slightly tannic finish. Great value. 14,000 cases produced. French-born Nicolas Quille, from Lyon, is the winemaker. Tel 509-786-4557. Tasted 3/5/02. 1999 Hogue Genesis Syrah, Columbia Valley, $?, 93 pts, C4+N3+F4A3T4E4TFR3: Subtle coffee nose. Complex, layered flavors. Slight hollowness mid-palate, but long, delightful finish. 200 cases produced. Tasted 3/5/02. 1999 McCrea Syrah, Boushey Grande Cote Vineyard, Yakima Valley: This wine was too tannic (T5) to evaluate at the time of tasting. However, if the tannins recede, allowing the fruit to come forward, this could turn out to be an excellent wine. 170 cases produced. Doug McCrea is the winemaker. Tel 360-458-9463. Tasted 3/5/02. 1999 McCrea Syrah, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, Yakima Valley: This wine was too tannic (T5) to evaluate at the time of tasting. However, if the tannins recede, allowing the fruit to come forward, this could turn out to be an excellent wine. 170 cases produced. Tel 360-458-9463. Tasted 3/5/02. 1999 Columbia Crest Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $?, 92 pts, C5-N3+?F4A3T4-E4-TFR3: Beautiful ruby red color. Hint of coffee on the nose. Relatively soft. Rich and well-balanced. Long, flavorful finish. Aged 14 months in new French oak. Doug Gore is the head winemaker. 425-488-1133. Tasted 3/5/02. The following Syrahs were tasted "on the run," with sparse accompanying notes. They are highly recommended for further investigation: 1999 Duck Pond Syrah, Columbia Valley, $35: Dark, big and rich. Wow! 423 cases. 800-437-3213. 1999 Dunham Cellars Syrah, Columbia Valley ?, $45: Dark, excellent concentration and finish. 509-529-4685. 1999 DeLille Cellars, Doyenne, 98% Syrah, 2% Viognier, $38: Good. Try again. 425-489-0544.
March 6, 2002 |
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The Alchemist's Wine Perspective™ |